INTRODUCTION

My purpose is to share my paddling experience and opinions with the people who have made us grow. For whatever it is worth you deserve it.

I do not profess to be the expert or authority that you should necessarily follow. I started paddling back in 1952 and began racing in 1955. I have put in thousands of water miles in kayaks and in single and double canoes all over Europe and here in the United States. During the past 30+ years, while running this company, I have heard hundreds of questions asked by our customers at shows, paddling symposiums, in our San Diego show room and over the telephone. Most of these questions have been repeated over and over again and I will try to address the most frequent ones. It might save me a lot of telephone time. Ha!

I want to emphasize here that my opinions are forthright, and my frankness is based on my own personal paddling experiences. I am not trying in any way to sell or promote our SEDA products in this section. As a matter of fact it is not uncommon for me to advise a customer against buying a particular SEDA boat, when I feel it is the wrong boat for their intended purpose. In contrast to career politicians, who often switch their opinions and agendas based on the popularity polls, I believe that people in private business must be honest. I would rather not make a sale then have a customer in the wrong boat for what he wants to do.

My first piece of advice to you is not to believe everything you hear or read about paddling. I believe that nobody knows it all and that you must personally feel that what you hear or read makes sense.

Over the past few years paddling in the U.S. has really taken off. There are more manufacturers and also numerous new specialty magazines catering to our ever growing paddling community. Most of these are credible. They are trying to do a good job. Unfortunately it is inherent to the publishing media that outrageous stories sell much better then everyday events. So it happens that quite often U.S. paddle sport magazines have articles describing off the beaten path paddling techniques, boats or other equipment.

It is upsetting to any experienced paddler to meet people who have purchased a canoe or kayak based on the bad advice or recommendation by an incompetent salesman who has perhaps never paddled the boat he sold. For example, it is a great disservice to sell a complete beginner a tippy racing canoe or kayak. Such a customer might be completely turned away from a wonderful and exciting sport thinking that all kayaks and canoes perform alike. Since we deal with water sports I am going to give you main stream advice on the true meaning of that word, based on my decades of experience.

What follows are questions that our beginning customers have most frequently asked. My frank answers are strictly based on my own views and paddling experience. That, of course, makes it one man's opinion and I know some will disagree with what I have to say. Nevertheless, it is variety of opinion that makes life interesting and educational. If some of my comments make sense to you and perhaps help you to see paddling from a different angle, then my time putting this section together will have been spent usefully.

Having said that, my advice to you is to read from a lot of different sources and form your own opinion on how to best enjoy the exciting sport of paddling.

Q: WHY SHOULD I TRY PADDLING?

Paddling a canoe or kayak is the closest way for a human being to enjoy water, short of swimming. The very nature of paddling is so simple and basic, that in itself might be it's main attraction to modern people. If we go thousands of years back in the history of mankind we find that paddling was always second nature to primitive man. We can only imagine the very first time that a primitive person came to a stream and decided to try mounting a piece of flotsam to paddle across. That certainly happened long before the wheel was invented.

The technological wonders of the present century have swamped us with new mind-boggling ways to get on the water. All kinds of powerboats, sailboats, catamarans, trimarans, windsurfers, jet skies, personal water vehicles, etc. are competing for our leisure time. It might seem that paddling a canoe or kayak is sort of a step back in time. It is my opinion that the attractiveness of paddling in these busy modern days fulfills an inner need for just such a step back in time. The more technologically advanced we human's become, the more likely our working days are spent behind closed doors in an office, or in other confining or sedentary pursuits. Canoes or kayaks offer us a convenient simple way to get back to nature, where fish swim and birds nest. Canoes and kayaks are inexpensive and easy to operate.

If you want to see a frustrated modem human, just go to any launching ramp on a busy weekend. Equipment failures and balky engines on modern boats cause a lot of silent (and sometimes not so silent) cursing when frustrated owners are unable to bring 20th century gadgets back to life. Similarly you may see an agitated modern man who just ran out of gas in his brand new jet ski a couple of miles from shore when it's getting dark and the offshore wind is picking up. These are the times when paddlers have the last laugh, for as long as our body and mind function we can paddle our kayak or canoe. It just proves how uncomplicated paddling is and how much more beneficial it is as a recreational sport.

The simplicity of paddling, the lack of maintenance costs or property taxes, the savings on registration fees and no operating expenses all favor paddling over other money-guzzling boats. When we go paddling, we do not leave fumes in the air and oil slicks on the water. We are so environmentally sound that a person in a canoe or kayak can get closer to wildlife than in any other modern watercraft. We do not have to have a depth finder and do not worry about our couple of inches of draft. After all, if we happen to get stranded in a shallow spot all we have to do is to step out, pick up our canoe or kayak and carry it into deeper water.

Paddling is the most affordable way to get exercise on the water. The paddling lifestyle takes us out of the gym and into the outdoors. Easy, self-taught paddling offers us a healthy and vigorous physical stimulus which we can adjust to our own capabilities.

Portability is another important feature. Modern lightweight kayaks and canoes are easily portable on top of the car. No trailers to buy or register. No storage, luxury, slip, or user fees to worry about. Paddling a canoe or kayak is an enjoyable, aesthetically pleasing, mind soothing sport.

Q: DO I NEED LESSONS TO LEARN PADDLING?

I have heard this question any number of times in our showroom and over the telephone. It is frightening to me that some customers even reject the idea of buying canoe or kayak altogether when they are told there is no paddling school in town. As absurd as it sounds I usually ask them a simple question: "Can you ride a bicycle?" Most answer, "Yes", and I ask: "Did you take lessons in bicycling when you first started?" They usually look at me as if I am crazy, but the point is made. Kayaks and canoes have been around for thousands of years since before the first wheel was invented and bicycles have been around just a couple of hundred years. We all remember how many times we fell off the bike and perhaps bruised our bodies before we mastered that relatively modern invention. Most of us never even thought of taking lessons in bicycling when it is obviously an inherently more dangerous sport than recreational paddling. Are there schools to learn bicycling in your town?

The fact of the matter is, over the past five decades I have seen hundreds of people who had never paddled a canoe or kayak trying one for the first time. And I will tell you, most of them were completely surprised to find how simple and easy it was. Naturally these first time paddlers were operating on absolutely calm water. That is where common sense must prevail. Just as we first tried a bicycle on a quiet street and avoided traffic and steep hills, beginning paddlers should also avoid problematic situations like waves, currents and wind which are the enemies of a novice.

Perhaps because of my European background I always tried to figure things out for myself. This makes an individual feel a sense of accomplishment. Then too, I never heard of paddling schools back in Europe when I was learning. It was only when I had attained some proficiency and aimed at the competitive level that coaching was necessary to get to the top. These days, in the United States, there is instruction available from many outfitters or specialty stores, and if you wish you may avail yourself of these. There are also paddling instruction videos which you can pop in your VCR. These may, in fact, get one through the beginning stage faster. But what I am trying to illustrate is that easy recreational paddling is so simple, that with common sense outside instruction is not necessary.

And what does "common sense" consist of? In this case it means that one does not buy a canoe or kayak and immediately head for the nearest whitewater rapid or try to paddle through ocean surf. Those sort of things understandably take training and experience, but I would take a bet that, as with bicycling, most good paddlers have not ever gone to a formal paddling school. Truly, paddling a canoe or kayak is almost a function of second nature, while many modern sports are not. Hang gliding, for example, requires extensive instruction before you go to the near-by cliff and sail into space, and you do not just jump on a windsurfer and take off down the bay. But as long as you know how to swim, and you initially avoid strong currents, waves and wind, you can be off and going in the paddling sports without formal instruction.

Q: IS PADDLING SAFE?

Compared to many other sports, paddling is safe. For example, the sport of horseback riding, often depicted as serene and romantic, is one of the most dangerous and accident prone sports of them all. Just ask any doctor who works the hospital emergency room near a stable. Why is riding different from paddling? Easy answer. A horse has a brain of its own, and that brain can react differently than ours when alarmed. Unfortunately, our bodies have not been designed for what in horseback riding is often a sudden head first six foot plunge to the ground. I purposely picked this example as a comparison.

Kayaks and canoes do not have brains, but you do, so safety is your responsibility! Fittingly the saying, "No brain, no fear", applies here. Motion pictures and television are designed to stimulate and entertain, and you often see exciting scenes showing canoe or kayak paddlers performing in dangerous or extremely turbulent conditions. The people who are doing this for the camera are expert paddlers, and often stunt men as well. They are paid a great deal of money to take the risk that the scene calls for. Does this then open the door for the novice or even intermediate paddler to try to duplicate the feat? Of course not. Any normal mental reaction should be to reject a dangerous situation for which we have no training or experience. But for someone who does not have his head screwed on correctly - he may try it and end up badly. No brains, no fear! Remember that slogan.

A paddler should preferably be a good swimmer. If not, then wearing a life vest is a must. This can apply to good swimmers as well, if circumstances dictate, and it should always apply when paddling alone. The U.S. Coast Guard has a say in this as well. Even if you don't wear one, a U.S.C.G. approved life vest is a required item on board your boat. (In the US, Children under a certain Age must ALWAYS wear a lifevest, check locally for your states age restrictions)

The other dangers to a paddler are waves, currents, wind, underwater obstructions and hypothermia. Observation is an essential part of paddling safety. Beginners should always paddle under smooth, calm water conditions.

Hypothermia - this term refers to the lowering of body temperature through exposure to the elements. It refers to survival time as the body temperature drops. The safe paddler checks on water temperature and prepares accordingly. Wet suits and extra clothing can be essential paddling items.

The Buddy System - Paddling with someone else is always good practice, especially in unfamiliar or turbulent waters. You may need help unexpectedly, and a companion or a group of them, can provide that assistance. And paddling with someone else is more fun anyway.

Paddling is as safe as you make it. Awareness of conditions coupled with common sense will make you a safe paddler.

Q: WHAT ABOUT TRADITIONAL KAYAK DESIGNS?

Proponents of traditional kayaking, who make, paddle and talk about replicas of early Eskimo and Indian boats as if they were superior are just kidding themselves. The early people did not have the materials, tools or design means which we have today. Their boats were functional, but not particularly efficient. As an example, if a replicated design measures 17 feet overall, but has its bow and stem up in the air, you are buying 14-15 feet of the hull in the water. The water entry is blunt which results in inefficient water pushing. The bow and stem project about a foot off the water at both narrow, pointed ends, almost resembling handles. In fact, these are the points where the Eskimos lashed the framework and covering skins together.

Unfortunately the modem kayak salesman may not know that, and some buyers have been told that the "handle-like" bow somehow magically opens up the waves when you go through the surf and will keep you drier. Give me a break! Anyone who has ever made a surf transit knows that you are going to get wet regardless of the bow shape you have. Secondly, if your skills are not up to it you are going to eat it in the surf regardless of boat design.

Then there are the proponents of hard chine plywood kayaks who claim some advantage in the design. Years ago I made a few plywood kayaks and the truth is that you cannot obtain the rounded shapes which give you a smaller wetted surface for speed and better wave handling.

Modern Eskimos and Indians have turned to powerboats and snowmobiles for fishing and hunting. But for those of us who want to turn back the time and enjoy the tranquillity of a kayak, modern design and modern materials are the key. When I sell a 17 foot kayak to a customer I want them to have the best and fastest 17 foot kayak available. That is what they pay for. A modern, properly designed boat is inherently better in every way. They are lighter, more comfortable, have better water entry and are more stable. The early native Americans can certainly be given credit for taking the initial steps in kayak development. 20th Century man can take credit for making the improvements. So please, if you purchase the traditional kayak for its looks, don't be too surprised if paddlers in modem, long waterline asymmetrical kayaks routinely pass you by.

Q: DO I NEED TO LEARN AN ESKIMO ROLL?

Certainly not. Most recreational paddlers have never learned to Eskimo roll. That skill is not necessary for general paddling. However, I strongly disagree with these authors of magazine articles, and others, who denounce the Eskimo roll as a worthless paddling skil1. Over the years, while participating in many paddling meets and symposiums, I have met quite a number of people who have voiced that opinion, but when I asked them if they themselves Eskimo roll, the answer has always been negative.

Among whitewater paddlers Eskimo rolling is much more common. The simple fact is that you cannot really run difficult whitewater without a solid Eskimo roll. You would spend most of your lime swimming in the river banging your legs on rock, and trying to catch your kayak. Knowing how to right your capsized paddle craft is indeed a useful skill, and I recommend that anyone who likes paddling a kayak try to learn the Eskimo roll if the opportunity presents itself. It will teach you better bracing techniques and will alleviate the ever-present fear: What if I capsize? Check out the Tips section of the website for information on learning to Eskimo Roll. It is not as difficult as you may think, and it will open new paddling horizons for you in the future.

Q: SHOULD MY BOAT BE FIBERGLASS OR PLASTIC?

This frequently asked question is difficult to answer because each of these materials has good and bad characteristics. I would rather outline the advantages and disadvantages and let you decide what will best suit your needs and pocketbook.

COST: Polyethylene plastic kayaks or canoes are quite a lot cheaper than comparable models in fiberglass. Polyethylene boats make good entry level boats for those on a limited budget. The reason for the lower cost is that these plastic boats (sometimes jokingly referred to as "Tupperware" boats), are made by machine of relatively inexpensive materials. All it takes are a couple of hours of human labor to turn one out. On the other hand, quality fiberglass canoes and kayaks are hand laid up, layer by layer. To complete a well made fiberglass canoe or long decked sea kayak may take anywhere from 10 to 30 man hours. Quality fiberglass fabric and resins are also a great deal more expensive than polyethylene compound.

DURABILITY: We all know that nothing is indestructible. Yet some manufacturers are quick to make that claim for ROYALEX and other plastic boats. Beware of sweeping statements. Don't be deceived by photos of canoes being pushed off roofs or being crushed by cars. Everything is destructible. Even granite wears away as water drips on it over the years. The same is true for ROYALEX and the "Tupperware" boats, else why would their manufacturers offer special skid patches for the bow and stern to "protect" your new boat in whitewater?

Of course there are some differences between the various plastics. ROYALEX, which is multi-layered is the strongest, followed by cross-linked polyethylene (which also has the greatest UV resistance) and then by linear polyethylene. Linear is especially susceptible to cracking. All plastic boats are very apt to scratch and scrape when run over jagged rocky surfaces. In time this type of abuse shaves the material away and eventually the bottom becomes thin and scarred and prone to cracking.

Fiberglass has been widely used in boats of all sorts since the mid-fifties. Many of these first boats are still sitting in marinas, day-in and day-out, exposed to sun, weather, heat and cold. Yet they are still serviceable and in use. Other plastics have been around in boats only since the mid-seventies. Long term sun exposure is especially bad for plastic and makes it brittle. You see this often in plastic milk bottles that have been left outside.

KEVLAR was invented by DuPont back in 1974, and we at SEDA began using it right away in our racing boats. We were written up by Popular Mechanics as the first manufacturer to use this amazing new product in kayak building. KEVLAR was developed by DuPont as an extremely high tensile strength fiber capable of stopping bullets, and is used in the manufacture of bullet proof vests. Understandably, this image stays in the mind of customers who buy KEVLAR boats. The buyer should understand, however, that the KEVLAR is embedded in resin, which gives it its shape. When a KEVLAR reinforced boat impacts with a rock at very high speed the resin is flexed to the point of breaking. The resin shatters, but the KEVLAR fabric keeps the boat together.

KEVLAR boats are extremely light and much tougher than identical fiberglass boats, and they are an absolute delight to paddle and handle. KEVLAR is very expensive, but it is an excellent choice in a boat if you can afford it.

REPAIRS: A fast impact with a sharp rock can crack most boat hulls made with resin. On KEVLAR boats repairs are easily made and do not require doing with KEVLAR fabric.

Breaks in fiberglass are also simple to repair. Kits are sold in automotive and marine stores and a repair can be made in a very short time, even in the wilderness or other isolated locations. This is not true of plastics, especially polyethylene. There is really not any good material to repair them which can later withstand impact and flex. There is no good adhesive which will reliably adhere to a plastic hull. For this reason many plastic boats are simply trashed when major damge is encountered.

RIGIDITY AND SHAPE RETENTION: The first primitive plastic boats were introduced in the mid-1970s for use in whitewater. They were superior to fiberglass in their ability to take abuse, especially when running the rapids in heavy whitewater. The compromise was their softness, flexibility and heavy weight. "Oil canning" and lack of rigidity slows down any boat. That is not critical when the river current is carrying you along to your destination and your only worry is to stay upright. However, in sea kayaking the speed of your kayak is quite important, and it is always more desirable to have a faster boat when you are trying to get somewhere. Sea kayaks are also much larger than river kayaks, and larger size creates a greater tendency to "oil can". To prevent or reduce this, plastic sea kayaks have to be made thicker, therefore heavier. There is no way that a plastic sea kayak can be made both light and rigid as can be done with fiberglass and KEVLAR. That is the reason why the serious sea kayaker will choose a lighter, rigid fiberglass or KEVLAR boat. Secondly, fiberglass and KEVLAR boats have reliable factory installed bulkheads and hatches. These things are less than reliable in plastic boats because of the aforementioned lack of an effective adhesive to bond the parts together.

I hope that I have now given you enough information to help make your choice of a kayak or canoe easier.

Q: SHOULD I USE A FEATHERED OR UNFEATHERED PADDLE?

What is unbelievable to me is that the United States is the only developed country in the world where some prominent kayak schools or so-called "kayak experts" actually teach and sell people unfeathered paddles. When I argue with those new kayak gurus, I ask them if they ever saw anyone race with unfeathered blades. The answer is always the same: "We are not racers and we tried feathered paddles and they gave us tendonitis." It was, I believe, Arthur Conan Doyle whose famous quote is: "Mediocrity does not recognize anything better."

The fact of the matter is that neither of the "unfeathered" arguments are very valid. First of all, paddling with a feathered paddle allows for a far more efficient and powerful stroke, that is why it is exclusively used by racers all over the world. They know better. Not only that, the drag caused by an unfeathered blade when going into the wind can be severe, and when you couple it with oncoming wave action it can become a genuine danger factor. Secondly, there is a safety reason to leam the most efficient way to paddle as racers do. When out paddling and the weather turns worse, your speed becomes your safety. You must be able to make headway and not be blown backwards.

Consider this, let's assume your kayak travels at 4 knots forward. Now depending on the speed of your stroke you can easily move your upper blade forward at 16 knots during each cycle of the stroke. Now add 15 knots head wind. The combined movement adds up to 35 knots of wind pushing backwards against the upper blade. Try to stand up in a 35 knot gale! That is a very significant force, and one that will tire you out quickly. Obviously a thin feathered upper blade which goes into the wind edgewise does not cause any wind drag.

The argument has been advanced that the early Greenland Eskimos used narrow wooden unfeathered paddles for thousands of years. Quite true. But they were restricted by the materials they had to work with. The Eskimos in the northern tundra did not have much tree selection, so they flattened the 3 inch diameter trunks that they had available, and it had to do for them. Fortunately, today we both know better and have better materials.

Now, about tendonitis. Show me a paddler who complains about this medical problem when using a feathered paddle and I will show you a paddler with poor stroke techniques. They paddle with drooped down, bent elbows, over-long paddles, and with hands permanently locked on to the shaft. The fact is, a feathered paddle allows for a highly efficient stroke where the upper hand pushes forward at or above your eye level. There is so much forward pressure on the shaft that you often see experienced paddlers open the fingers of their upper hand to relax their grip on every single stroke.

During the cold war the Communist countries wanted to prove the superiority of their systems. To this end they devoted much time and many resources to win superiority in world competitive sports. Kayaking was one of these, and teams of doctors and scientists worked to understand and develop the best and most efficient kayak strokes. While I was on the Czechoslovak National Team they used Ergometers and sensors in the shafts to determined how muscle power was used during a paddle stroke. They found that power is divided very closely into a 40% forward push by the upper hand while the lower hand pulls at 60%. This division switches back and forth between the arms as the stroke cycle continues.

Anatomically, the upper hand is created to push with the palm forward, which the feathered paddle facilitates. Unfeathered pad- dles do not allow this and force the paddler to push with a straight wrist and place the pushing pressure on the thumb. If anything is going to cause tendonitis, this is it. The fact that it does not happen to unfeathered beginners with great frequency can be attributed to the fact that few of them undertake long paddling trips. On the other hand there are some grueling non-stop races such as the 400 mile Texas Safari, exclusively raced with feathered paddles.

I not only recommend a feathered paddle, but a right feathered one at that. This means that your right hand is fixed and the paddle rotates in your left hand. This has nothing to do with being right or left handed, because our hands have the same coordinating ability to squeeze when we first learn. The important fact is that 99% of paddles used in the U.S. are right hand control so if your paddle should be lost or broken, you may borrow or interchange with your friends without a problem.

If you already have an unfeathered paddle, do yourself a favor and get rid of it. If you are looking for a paddle, the right oriented feathered blade is the proper choice. When you are out there bucking a head wind you will reward us for this advice with your sincere thanks, and you will end up with a better natural paddle stroke.

Q: WHAT IS THE RIGHT LENGTH PADDLE FOR ME?

The proper length of paddle depends on your body size, on your boat and on the kind of paddling you do. My personal experience is that it is always better to err on the shorter length than to be stuck with a paddle too long for your height. It is sad to see some "sea kayaking experts" or specialty stores recommending and selling kayak paddles between 8-9 ft.(96 - 108 inches) in length. Their rationale is that such extremely long paddles will give you reach and effortless paddling. This is nonsense, and it is easy to prove.

Paddling with an excessively long paddle results in a very inefficient stroke. When a paddle is used in a close to horizontal position, as a long paddle must be, the paddle blades are working too far away from the center of the kayak so that part of the energy is directed to turning the kayak from left to right with each stroke. There is also too much leverage because of the excessive distance between your wrist and the blade of the paddle.

Most of our readers are familiar with bicycling and the derailer gear. When everything is fine on a flat grade, you may shift into a higher gear utilizing the smallest gear in the back. That is an equivalent of a very long paddle. When you come to a hill you start downshifting, because your muscles would rather move faster with less effort. Downshifting utilizes the larger wheel in the back, which is equivalent to the shorter paddle. Hitting a hill on a bicycle equates to the kayaker who has suddenly run into increasing wind and waves. Unfortunately, we do not yet have a paddle which can offer a derailer-like feature to change length while paddling. What you have purchased is what you must use. So in paddle selection, we are talking about only one proper gear ratio to choose from. I am sure most of you would rather pick a paddle which can handle all the changing grades the waterway brings you.

In paddling the upper hand pushes while the lower hand pulls. For an efficient stroke, your upper hand on a kayak paddle shaft should push forward to a full extension at about eye level. With an excessively long paddle that is impossible. Just look at those "experts" with excessively long paddles. You will see that they bend their elbows at all times, with the upper hand moving forward barely at chest level. In adverse conditions, when the paddling out there gets tough, it will be the speed and frequency of your strokes which will keep you moving forward efficiently.

We can move our hands back and forth under light load conditions for a very long time, but when you increase that load substantially, as you do with a paddle that is too long, you will find that you tire and your muscles cramp quite easily. Again, your paddle blade should work close to your boat, with the shaft slanted more than 45 degrees, to transfer most of your energy into forward motion. A shorter paddle does this, while a longer one wastes energy by adding unneeded turning leverage to the boat.

The same formula applies to canoe paddles. If the canoe paddle is too long our upper shoulder will start hurting because you have to stretch your arm too high to have your blade clear the water. The simple rule for choosing the length of your canoe paddle is to stand on the floor looking forward, and place the end of the blade on the floor next to your toes. The end of the handle should about touch your chin. You can keep your shoes on when you do this (high heels excepted), the measurement is not that critical. Most adults will be properly outfitted with a canoe paddle measuring from 54 to 64 inches in length.

To measure for a touring or sea kayak paddle, stand erect with the paddle next to you, and with your arm and hand fully extended upward. You should be able to just bend your knuckles over the upper blade edge. Touring paddles for adults usually measure between 84 to 92 inches.

River or whitewater kayak paddles are shorter for two reasons. First, you are operating in shallow water. Second, it is only good bracing and sculling that keeps you upright in the rapids. You just can't do anything quickly with an excessively long kayak paddle in the middle of turbulent whitewater, especially the quick snap of an Eskimo Roll.

My guide for choosing an optimum length whitewater kayak paddle is to stand straight with the paddle next to you; lift one arm up until the angle from your shoulder to your elbow is just slightly up from horizontal and your knuckles are bent around the tip of the blade. Using this technique most adults are outfitted with the whitewater paddle with a length between 78 and 82 inches.

The last variable to consider is the speed and beam of your boat. For the heavier, slower boat, a slightly shorter paddle is better. For a sleek fast-moving boat a slightly longer paddle will lengthen the stroke to keep the faster boat going.

With regard to all of the forgoing measurements, an inch either way is not that critical. But don't let someone sell you a paddle that is a foot or more too long. Believe it or not, this might happen when the over-long paddle is the only length left in store inventory after the season ends.

Q: WHAT DOES "SEDA" IN YOUR COMPANY NAME MEAN?

People have asked me this question over and over through the years, so here is the explanation. Shortly after I arrived in this country, and began designing canoes and kayaks, several oil companies held contests to come up with new names. I recall that one contestant won two million dollars by coming up with EXXON to replace the more cumbersome "Standard Oil of New Jersey". Another person cashed in by suggesting CHEVRON to replace "Standard Oil of California". Atlantic Richfield Oil became ARCO, etc. The criteria for a good trade name was described in the newspapers as follows: The name should be short, should stand out and should have absolutely no meaning in any language.

Although I had sold barely a dozen boats out of my garage that first year, and even though I was no match for Standard Oil, I decided that I should do right with my new company name. Well I didn't have any money to invest in contest, so I searched my own mind to come up with an answer.

My family name is SEDIVEC, so from the time I entered high school, and on through the University of Prague I was always known by the nickname, SEDA. This name fit all of the parameters in the newspaper articles and it made sense to me.

On hindsight I could have offered the SEDA name to some big U.S. oil company for big money. Instead I had to struggle with a growing small business for years, while I explained to anyone who asked what the SEDA name meant.

Well, as the saying goes, "Those who think big money will bring them happiness never get any." Instead, we have found happiness in our name, our business and in you, our customers. We are proud of what we are able to offer.